2009/09/28

Sam Adams Utopias 2009

The Bugatti Veyron of beer, totally impractical, hyper-indulgent, made my legs tingle, surreal, a fifteen flavor doppleganger of brewery convention that demands your undivided attention, more depth and nuance than anything else brewed, as interesting as the most eminent wines and spirits, verging on the absurd, but sheer joy to the beer aficionado. Sure you can say it's overdone, but what the hell else comes in at 27% alcohol and still is identifiable as beer? Simply NOTHING ... and I'm only guessing, but in true Veyron fashion I bet the crew at Boston Brewing hardly makes a dime on the stuff. This beer cannot be dismissed, it's the product of one of the most magnanimous craft beer groups in the world, and to ignore the amazing art here only connotes of our utter ignorance of to how to judge such a bespoke juggernaut amongst the artisanate.

Utopias is a velvet covered mallet on the fore-palate, sweet, brandy-like, caramel with acid like a gastrique, voluminously nutty, persistent, unrelenting, it just dances to different tunes in your mouth for several minutes afterward. The next taste brings something completely different, floral, herbal, beguiling you to reexamine the beast, it lingers gracefully, then finishes with a new layer of cocoa and figs, tar, vanillin, even slate. This beer is simply uncategorizable, truly the most interesting brew, maybe not the one you knowingly covet, but one you can barely even imagine in your dreams. The 2007 goes on eBay for $375-450, now I know why ... 100 pts