My approach was to accent a familiar flavor combination, like tuna and wasabe, with some contrasting textures and complementary flavors that might be unfamiliar to some. Specifically, I wanted to bring out the nuttiness and crunchy texture of sesame, and contrast that with a savory application of strawberries by marrying this with cilantro in a soft textural element. This is a small plate preparation designed as a early course in a larger meal, but you could increase the tuna portion and make this an entrée.
- 1 tuna steak, good quality maguro is best
- 1/4 cup white sesame seeds
- 1/8 cup black sesame seeds
- 1 tsp coriander powder
- kosher salt TT
- 2 tsp wasabe powder, rehydrated
- 1 lb very ripe strawberries
- 1 bunch cilantro
- 1 lime
- 7.5 grams gelatin
Finely chop 1/2 of a bunch of cilantro leaves, carefully removing stems (about 1/4 cup). Clean and destem the strawberries, then blend to liquify for 1-2 minutes. Pass the mixture through a fine mesh strainer or chinois (recommended) to extract just the strawberry juice. Take 750 ml of the strawberry juice and combine with the fresh juice of 1 lime. Bring the mixture to a bare boil and whisk in 1 packet of unflavored gelatin (7.5 grams). Remove from heat and continue to whisk until the gelatin is fully incorporated. Combine the chopped cilantro and incorporate evenly. Pour the mixture into a small square plastic container (approximately 5" x 5"), and allow to set in the refrigerator for 1 hour.
Toast a 1/4 cup of white sesame seeds in a medium hot non-stick skillet for 3-4 minutes, tossing frequently, until a light golden brown color begins to take shape. Reserve the toasted white sesame seeds. Toast a teaspoon of coriander powder in the skillet for about 30 seconds, smoke will start to form quickly so agitate the pan but give it 30 seconds. Toss the white sesame seeds with about half as many black sesame seeds and the toasted coriander to form an even mixture and then spread these on a large plate in an even layer.
Take a tuna steak that is about 1 1/2 - 2" thick, and cut cylindrical shapes out of it. Gently salt the tuna with kosher salt, just a little. Prepare a paste of wasabe, and coat the tuna cylinders completely with a thin coating; in this case I used 100% pure wasabe, sans horseradish, as it has a softer burn and almost fruity sweet flavor, a personal preference kind of like choosing good mustard over the yellow stuff. Then role the tuna in the sesame and coriander to cover completely.
In a small sloped saute pan, bring 3 tablespoons grapeseed oil to medium high heat. Place the tuna cylinders upright to begin searing. At the same time, tilt the pan toward you and using a small spoon, bathe the tuna in the grapeseed oil for about 90 seconds. Turn the tuna once and repeat the bathing for another 60 seconds.
Plate the tuna on the center of a small plate, a coffee cup saucer is perfect. Cut 2 circular portions of the strawberry cilantro gelée and place these slightly offset and overlapping from the center of the tuna.
The flavor of the strawberry and cilantro plays well with the sesame, tuna and wasabe with a toasted coriander note in the background. The textural contrast of the crisp crust, semi-firm meat of the rare tuna, and soft gelée was very enjoyable.
For the food science geeks out there, the strawberry / cilantro pairing is based on research from Khymos, and the gelée used a 1% concentration of gelatin.
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